Musings on Mudgee

The first commandment in Mudgee is to sample the wine; perhaps that should read – ‘the thirst commandment’. In any event the wines, for the most part, are wonderful and such a superb variety spread over about forty wineries! Mudgee is an intriguing place – it retains the permanence and continuity of a quintessentially country town with a veneer of urban sophistication.

There is a solidarity to the buildings, thanks to the wide use of sandstone, which is curiously reassuring. The wide streets are a bonus and a challenge simultaneously; angle parking is a breeze although the traffic still comes to a standstill like everywhere else I expect. Nonetheless it’s so much easier, although crossing the street, as a pedestrian, seems to take ages. Admittedly, it might be that it’s just the curse of my age and increasing infirmity! Furthermore, roundabouts rule – there’s not one set of traffic lights in the entire town!

There’s a prosperity about the town that’s unmistakable. A sentiment that appeared to be shared by an acquaintance that we met, quite by chance, who happened to be staying at the next cabin or cottage on the estate where we also were staying. It’s quite astonishing how often it happens that you will meet up with someone you know in another area. Jack apparently is an old Mudgee boy who returns, periodically, to reconnect with his youth and past. We both agreed that whilst Mudgee is a mere 261 kilometres north-west of Sydney, it is like entering another world; not frantic or obsessed with style but a place of rural tranquility…country style!

Now I suppose that might sound a little too bucolic but it’s not meant to be patronising. Indeed, it strikes me that the solution to the urban sprawl that is the curse of the major cities of Australia (and especially to us here in NSW), lies in towns like Bathurst, Dubbo, Orange and Mudgee. In my opinion, the powers that be should be encouraging the population to abandon Sydney and seek opportunities across the Great Dividing Range. To this end, I also believe that large infrastructure projects should be initiated out west by the government of the day. For example, I reckon that a second major airport would be put to better use if situated in rural NSW. The reality is that over 70% of all air traffic in and out of the country is concerned with freight only; most of which must be transferred to other flights or train or truck transport. I could rattle on further about the employment opportunities that would be generated by this and other schemes, and the opportunity to do these things in an environmentally sensitive way, but…who cares? Besides wine and wheat, Mudgee’s other good things to eat, include cattle, sheep, alfalfa, olives, fruit, tomatoes, corn, honey, and dairy products; thanks mainly to the Mediterranean-like climate. And Mudgee has another arrow its prosperity quiver, their dark secret: coal.

In fact, the Ulan Mine Complex is situated a mere 40 clicks away from Mudgee and their website indicates that they have a 20 year plan to extend their already considerable activities. To this end, the railway and signalling systems are currently being extended to Muswellbrook in the Hunter valley. Intriguingly, an Aboriginal rock art site is situated very close to the Ulan mines called ‘Hands on the Rock’ and is well worth a look. This was the ancient home of the Wiradjuri people – who were thought to be the biggest indigenous tribe in NSW, whose numbers were likely in excess of 12,000 individuals. By 2009, their native language had become extinct. Although a revival is progressing with the language being taught in some schools and TAFES. Actually, the name – Mudgee is derived from the Wiradjuri term ‘Moothi’ meaning ‘Nest in the Hills’ or ‘mou-gee’ meaning ‘contented’.

I must say that after a day or two doing the rounds of the wineries, restaurants and cafes; we were feeling quite ‘contented’ also…well I mean…you just had to try the wines; it’s the polite thing to do! And at another location we also tried some goat cheese and sheep cheese. Personally, I don’t think the latter is anything to ‘bleat’ about but we came away with a couple of samples in any event. We also took in Gulgong whose streets are as narrow as Mudgee’s are wide; where the main claim to fame is that the town once featured on the rear of the old ten dollar bill along with Henry Lawson – it’s most famous inhabitant. It was also here where one of the last great gold rushes took place in the 1870s that was worked as ‘poor man’s diggings’ without substantial capital investment. The narrow streets are a legacy from the gold rush days where they followed the original tent peg lines.

But the highlight of the trip for me was the Reader’s Festival and Book Fair that happened to be on the very weekend we had arranged to come home. So after loading up with yet another pile of books (thanks to the rise of Kindle and other electronic devices, books are becoming ludicrously cheap); attending an alternative history lecture given by David Hunt and Tim Flannery that was entertaining and quite hilarious; we returned home laden with bottles of wine, cheese, books and sundry knick-knacks from various op-shops, junk shops and other unmentionables. Images of Henry Lawson are found all over the place and his visage is invoked at any opportunity – much like Elvis in Memphis or…Parkes, NSW for that matter! Anyway, in the spirit of Henry, I offer this short soliloquy:

Even in the depths of despair, not always are you aware,
The door is always open – remember to keep in sight the portal.
Yesterday…all was well, tomorrow…you’re immortal.
But society will not grudge thee, time spent exploring Mudgee!
Drink the wine, imbibe the cheese; yellow box honey is sure to please.
While the spirit is willing, indulge the senses and cause a riot,
Eat, drink and be merry for tomorrow we diet!

In conclusion, I just like to encourage the population of our urban centres (especially Sydney) to consider making a move to the country. There is a life to be had beyond the Nepean River – truly!

Have you been to Mudgee? What is your favourite thing to do there?